Citadel of Qaitbay
In Alexandria
The Qaitbay Citadel in Alexandria is considered one of the most important defensive strongholds not only in Egypt but also on the Mediterranean Sea coast. It formulated an important part of the fortification system of Alexan dria in the 15th century AD. This citadel was established by the sultan Al Ashraf Abou El Nasr Seif Eldin Qaitbay Al Zahiry, who was so fond of art and architecture that he adopted as one of his government posts the position of (Edifices Mason) The most famous person who occupied this significant position was Qagmas Al-Ishaqy, who was the architect of this Citadel. The citadel is situated at the entrance of the eastern harbor on the eastern point of the Pharos Island. It was erected on the exact site of the famous Lighthouse of Alexandria which was considered one of the seven wonders of the ancient world
This lighthouse continued to function until the time of the Arab conquest, several disasters occurred and the shape of the lighthouse was changed to some extent but it continued to function. Restoration began in the period of Ahmed Ibn Tulun (about 880 AD). Again about the 11th century another disaster occurred, causing the damage of the octagonal part after an earthquake. The bottom survived but could only serve as watch tower on the top of which a small mosque was built. After that came a very destructive earthquake in the 14th century and the whole building was completely destroyed. In about 1480 A.D the Mameluke Sultan Al Ashraf Qaitbay fortified the place as a part of his coastal defensive edifices against the Turks, who were threatening Egypt at that time.
He built this castle with a mosque inside it. No doubt that fort continued to function during most of all the Mameluke period, the ottoman period and the Modern period. After the British bombardment of the city of Alexandria in 1883 it was kept out of the spotlight. It was neglected and during the 20th century it was restored several times by the Egyptian supreme counsel of antiquities.
The founder of this Citadel is Sultan Al Ashraf Abou El Nasr Saif El Din Qaitbay El Jerkasy Al Zahiry ( 1468-1496 A.D) who was born About 1423 AD ( 826 H ). He came to Egypt as a young man of less than 20 years of age. He was a Mameluke bought by Al Ashraf Barsbay and remained among his attendants until he died. Then Qaitbay was bought by the sultan Djaqmaq who gave him his freedom and during his reign he occupied various posts until he became the chief of the army (Atabek Al Askar) during the rule of the sultan Tamar bugha. When the sultan Tamar bugha was dethroned, Qaitbay was appointed as a sultan who was titled Al Malik Al Ashraf on Monday 26th Ragab , 872 H. ( 1468 A.D) Qaitbay was one of the most important and prominent Mameluke sultans , he ruled for about 29 years. He was a brave king. He tried to initiate a new era with the Ottomans by exchanging embassies and gifts. He was fond of travel and made many prominent journeys.
Qaitbay was so fond of art and architecture that he adopted an important post among the administrative system of the state, it was the (Edifices Mason) Shady Al Ama er He built many benefic constructions in Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem. In Egypt there are about 70 renovated edifice attributed to him (1). Among these establishments there are Mosques, Madrasas, Agencies; Fountain houses (Sabils), Kuttabs, houses, military edifices like the citadel in Alexandria and another one in Rosetta (Nowadays the city of Rashid). Qaitbay built the Citadel of Alexandria and Rashid (Rosseta) to protect the north of Egypt mainly against the Ottomans whose power was increasing in the Mediterranean.
Qagmas Al-Ishaqy, The Edifices Mason Shady Al-Ama,er was the architect of this citadel. Before his arrival to Egypt he was a Mameluke of Djakmaq in Syria. He cam e to Egypt and during the rule of Qaitbay became the edifices mason, and then the viceroy of Alexandria. He was appointed governor of Syria (Damascus), built a mosque outside the gate of Rashid (Bab Rashid) he built a cenotaph and a Khan. He also renovated the mosque of el Sawary outside the gate of Sadrah (Bab Sadrah). Qgmas was intelligent and modest. He was the overseer of many constructions during the time of Qaitbay. In 882 H. (1477 AD) the sultan Qaitbay visited the site of the old lighthouse in Alexandria and ordered a fortress to be built on the foundations of the lighthouse. Its construction lasted about 2 years. It said that Qaitbay spent more than a hundred thousand Dinars for the work of this citadel.
Ibn Ayas mentioned that building of this fort started in the month of Rabi Al Awal 882 AH; he said that the sultan Qaitbay traveled to Alexandria accompanied with some other Mameluke princes and during his visit he ordered to build great fort. The sultan and the other princes visited the site of the old light-house that was destroyed by a major earthquake in the year 702 H. In the month of Shaban 884 the sultan Qaitbay traveled again to Alexandria construction was finished. He provided the fort with a brave legion of soldiers and various weapons. He also as Ibn Ayas mentioned dedicated several waqfs from which he financed the construction works as well as to provide the salaries of the soldiers. In the Mameluke period and due to its strategic location, the citadel was well maintained by all the rulers who came after Qaitbay.
The Sultan Qansuh Al Ghouri gave this citadel special attention. He visited it several times and increased the strength of the garrison and provided it with various weapons and equipment. It included a large prison made for the princes and the state-men whom the sultan kept away from his favor for some reasons. In the episodes of the year 920 H the sultan El Ghoury traveled to Alexandria with other princes. They went to the citadel of Qaitbay. There he watched some maneuvers and a military training on the defensive weapons of the citadel of that era.
When he felt the approach of the Ottoman threat he issued a military decree to forbid weapons out of the citadel even he announced that death penalty will be the punishments to those who try to steal anything from the citadel and he ordered the inscription for this decree on a marble slate fixed to the door leading the court. It says
"Bism Ellah El Rahman El rahim"
A decree by the order of our master, the noble rank , king Al Ashraf Abou El Naser Qansoh El Ghoury , May God eternalize his reign , that nobody should take Makahel weapon , gun powder , tools , or any other thing from the noble tower in Alexandria: and any one of the tower party , whether Mamelukes , Slaves or Zarad Kashia , who breaks this ( decree)and leaves the tower with something will be hanged at the gate of the tower, deserving the curse of God
Dated Rabei Alawal 907 H.
After the ottoman Turks conquered Egypt they cared for that unique citadel, they used it for shelter as they had done with the citadel of Saladin in Cairo, the citadel of Damietta, Rosetta, Al Borollos and El Arish. No doubt they kept it in good condition and stationed it with infantry, artillery, a company of drummers and trumpeters, masons and carpenters. As the Ottoman military became weak, the citadel began to lose its military importance. In 1798 A.D during the French expedition of Egypt the Citadel of Qaitbay fell into the hands of the French troops because of the weakness of the citadel garrison and the power of the French modern weapons at that time. The French found in the citadel some crusader weapons which date back to the campaign of Luis IX. Maybe it was a spoil after the battle of El Mansoura or maybe after the capture of the later. is a bold and elegant font that is highly readable, even on smaller screens. So it’s ideal for mobile.
When Mohammed Ali became the ruler of Egypt in 1805, He renovated the old citadel of Qaitbay, restored, repaired its outer ramparts and he provided the stronghold with the modern weapons at that period, particularly the littoral cannons. We can really consider the reign of Mohamed Ali was another golden era for the Qaitbay citadel.
The citadel retained the interest of Mohammed Ali's successors until the year 1882 when the Orabi revolution took place; the British fleet bombarded Alexandria violently on 11 Jul 1882 and damaged a large part of the city especially the area of the Qaitbay Citadel. That hard attack did great damage and cracked the fortress, the worst destruction on the north and the western facades which had been severely damaged as a result of the explosion of the cannons directly to the structure. Even the western facade was completely destroyed and had large gaps. Unfortunately, the citadel remained neglected; in 1904 the Ministry of defense restored the Upper floors.
King Farouk wanted to turn the citadel into a royal Rest-house therefore ordered a rapid renovation for it. After the revolution of 1952 the Egyptian Naval troops turned the building to a Maritime Museum. The biggest restoration works dates back to 1984 when the Egyptian Antiquities Organization made ambitious plans to restore the fort.
